A magnetic paint protector is also provided so you can paint around the speaker, even if the RW II is already installed. For drywall installation, the speaker enclosure includes dog legs that slide into place when you tighten the screws. So no need to drill holes for screw placement.
If you intend to install the RW II for a 5. Both of these quality receivers will drive the RW II effectively and efficiently. For your sub-bass, include the Klipsch RSWi. This powered subwoofer delivers W of power with the option of running it via a cable or wirelessly via the supplied transmitter.
The RW II is part of a wide range of Klipsch Architectural in-wall and in-ceiling speakers which means you can find the right speaker for every position in the room. The sound quality is exceptional with the RW II capable of producing a rich full-range sound.
As Klipsch in-wall speakers are the best, expect the prices to be more expensive. Also from Polk Audio, the RC85i is more of a party in-wall speaker as opposed to a home theater in-wall speaker like many featured in this article. The 8-inch driver produces an exceptional some serious bass which results in a lot of speaker cone movement, especially at high volumes. To avoid any movement or vibration in the wall itself, the 8-inch driver is mounted in a rubber surround.
The swivel mount tweeter allows you to focus the high-frequency driver towards your listening area. This ensures you experience the best listening experience and clarity, especially for home theater applications.
The RC85i is a vertical mount speaker which can only be mounted in one upright position. While the RC85i can be used as a home theater system, the best application would be for a general sound system indoors or outdoors. Perfect as a party speaker in the bar or out on the deck. If you do install these speakers outside, make sure the RC85i is fully covered by the roof where no direct rain or water can reach them. These speakers are resistant to moisture but not protected against direct contact with water.
Polk Audio supplies a template to measure the correct hole size before cutting. The speaker grilles are paintable so you can match paint or decor. For home theater installations, the Yamaha RX-V 5. For speaker cables, Polk Audio recommends using nothing less than gauge wire. We recommend following the Polk Audio RT cable lengths:. The RC85i is better suited for entertainment areas, covered patios, or even damp installations like bathrooms or the sauna.
These in-wall and in-ceiling speakers are manufactured using premium-grade parts and designed to produce exceptional audio quality. The MartinLogan ML65i features a 6. The ML65i has an excellent low-frequency response with a defined bass sound. The detail and clarity in the mid-range and highs are exceptional. Watching movies or playing games through the ML65i is especially exciting. For the bottom end, you can go with either the MartinLogan Dynamo inch W or Dynamo 40 0 8-inch W powered subwoofer.
MartinLogan provides detailed installation instructions with scenarios for different room sizes and speaker positions. The speaker grille fits over the speaker frame completely so nothing but the grille is exposed. The space between the wall and the ML65i grille is less than 5mm giving an exceptional low-profile, clean aesthetic. The speaker grille is paintable so you can match your wall or decor. Pairing a receiver with your MartinLogan in-wall speakers is critical to maximizing performance and efficiency.
High-end speakers require a high-end receiver. This high-performance slimline home theater amplifier has many premium features but most importantly, will drive both the ML65i and ML66i MartinLogan in-wall speakers. If you want the best in-wall speakers and are willing to spend some money, then the MartinLogan ML65i is as good as it gets. You also run the risk of damaging the speakers with a cheap amplifier.
The 8 inches 2-way weatherproof in-wall speaker by CT Sounds is another highly versatile and impressive unit. The speaker operates at a power handling output of W and can perform 2. The speakers have been designed to provide a zero-fatigue listening experience, which is possible due to an 8-inch injection-molded woofer that accurately replicates a wide frequency range with warm tonal characteristics.
This allows for the elimination of harsh high-end, which is highly beneficial to your hearing health. These speakers can operate for hours on end without causing any form of auditory discomfort as minimal distortion can be detected — this allows for a lengthy listening session at any volume. It is also important to remember how the acoustic properties of your wall will affect the low-end response and the overall soundstage here. The 8-inch woofer does a great job considering its size, and it works in conjunction with a 2.
As for the construction of these CT Sounds speakers, a polypropylene cone is utilized rather than a flimsy, moisture-absorbing paper speaker cone. This specification permits use of the speakers in all environments including in the kitchen, bathroom, or even outdoors in rainy or high humidity circumstances.
The internal speaker components used are of absolute quality and will last for countless listening hours to come. The grille can be painted to match the color scheme of whatever room or area you plan on installing them within. Once you have all your open spaces, run the relevant cables through and connect to your TV, Cable Box, or Media System.
The in-wall speakers can then be mounted within your drywall and secured using the supplied screws. The optional grille can then be placed over the speakers if that suits your intended aesthetic. You can now connect any loose cables and at the click of a button-enjoy the immersive listening experience.
When working in the attic or under the house, be sure to wear gloves, a mask, and a cap to protect you from dust, fiberglass insulation, and other hazards. Note: If you are installing speakers in several rooms that are powered by one amp or receiver, it is important to install a switcher with an impedance-matching device.
This is essentially a small box with several speaker connectors that ensures that the component will work with multiple speakers. Step 5: Installing the Speakers If you want to paint the speaker frames and grilles to match the walls, paint them before you install them. Always use spray paint and mask the speaker components.
Some in-walls come with a paint mask for this purpose. Several light coats of paint are better than one thick coat. Most in-wall speakers use four or six dog-leg clamps to secure the speaker to the wall, and some have a gasket that goes between the speaker frame and the wall to prevent vibrations and wall rattles. After inserting the speaker and gasket, if applicable into the cutout, tighten the screws on the front of the speakers to move the clamps into position and attach the speaker to the wall.
Some speakers use a perimeter clamp, which uses the entire frame to clamp the speaker to the wall. Both types work well when properly installed. Some in-wall speakers are installed in two pieces. The frame is secured to the wall, and the speaker is then inserted into the frame. Consider installing some insulation R in the wall cavity behind the speakers to improve sound quality. The width of the insulation is usually pre-cut, so you only need to cut it to length and insert it in the opening behind the speakers.
Each speaker has a positive red and a negative black terminal, and amplifiers have similar identifying marks or colors. It's important to connect them correctly. Turn on the amp or receiver to perform a sound check. Start at a low volume, in the case of a problem. Listen to each speaker, and use the balance control stereo receiver or speaker test tones multichannel receiver to make sure all channels are connected correctly. If you don't hear any sound from a speaker, shut off the receiver and check your connections.
If the receiver turns on and then immediately shuts off, you probably have a wire connected incorrectly, bare wire touching metal, or a bad connection. Re-check the connections on each speaker and on the back of the receiver.
If yours don't, use tape to mark them for easy identification. Step 7: Optional, but Highly Recommended Turn on your favorite movie or music, sit back, and enjoy your work. Parts and Tools Required: 1. Cordless drill with a variety of bits 2. Hand drywall saw 3. Stud finder 5. Here are some guidelines:. Never use the same holes for both AC wire and low-voltage wire. Try to avoid installing your wires beside AC power lines for more than 5 feet.
As much as possible, keep them 1 foot away from the power lines throughout their runs. You can safely run audio and video in the same bundle as security, phone, data, and other low-voltage wire. Running low-voltage cables black with AC power cable orange may result in poor performance or wire damage. If cables and power cable run parallel, keep them a minimum of 12" apart. If they intersect, keep them at degree angles. Drill your holes in the center of each stud. A standard 2" x 4" stud is actually about 3.
Keep all holes centered vertically in the joist. Don't drill within 2" of the top or bottom of the joist. The extreme ends and the middle third of the span of the joist carry the load, so avoid making holes there if possible.
You are limited to a hole that is a third of the measured depth of the joist. You can drill multiple holes rather than one very large hole when many wires need to go one way.
You cannot make any holes in laminated support beams glue lams or headers the supports over doors, windows, or arches. For your wires to pull easily, the diameter of a hole should be about twice as big as the total diameter of all the wires you plan to pull through it.
Since hole sizes are limited, you may have to use multiple holes. Dress at least 2 feet of speaker wire in a loop at each J-box or P-ring location, securing it with wire ties. Once a wire or bundle of wires has been pulled to its outlet location, you must dress it. Be careful when using plastic wire ties — they should be snug, but not tight enough to pinch the cable.
Always inspect as much as possible before making a hole. Explore your crawlspace or ceiling in an unfinished segment of your basement. Try to detect which way joists run and where empty wall space between studs might be.
By inspecting from your crawlspace or attic, you can identify which wall locations do not carry water pipes and electrical wires. A high-quality studfinder will help you distinguish between different types of obstacles behind your walls, including studs, AC cables, and pipes. Of course, you can't know what's behind the wall with absolute certainty. You must be prepared to cut and patch exploratory holes.
To minimize that work, use a studfinder that can locate wood, metal, and live AC wiring. You can also drill small "pilot holes" to explore behind your walls. Use a sturdy piece of wire, like a bent coat hanger, to find nearby obstacles. Be sure to shut off power in the area where you'll be drilling your pilot hole, and use caution so you don't plunge your bit into a pipe or electrical conduit. Make sure you know where your main water shut-off valve is located, just in case you do puncture a water pipe.
After you've confirmed that all of your component locations will work, traced the templates, and made any other preparations recommended in the owner's manual for your speakers or brackets, you can begin cutting drywall. If you're creating a rectangular hole, start by drilling two small holes in opposite corners; if it's round, drill two small holes on opposite sides.
Next, using your drywall saw, start from one hole, and work around the outline to the next. Cut the drywall in one piece, on an inward slant, so that it's easier to patch later if necessary. If you don't need to patch the hole, just remove any excess material before installing the speaker.
For more information on choosing and confirming locations for your in-wall gear, see our in-wall speaker installation guide. If your house has plaster and lath walls or ceilings, installing your own in-wall wiring will be more complicated. Plaster tends to crack and crumble easily, so you should be prepared to do some touch-up work. We recommend running out-of-wall wire, and using carpets, cabinetry, etc. You'll probably encounter some in-wall obstacles while routing your cables, such as additional bracing or a fire block.
If that happens:. To route wire through a hidden obstruction: A Cut a rectangular piece of drywall around the obstacle. B Notch the block or drill a hole for the cables. Use your fish tape to route the wire through the hole. In the example shown here, you cut two holes in the wall — one for a wall plate and another for an in-wall speaker. One hole goes below the wall plate and the other goes below the in-wall speaker. How do you know where to drill the bottom plate holes?
You can either measure the distance to the wall plate and speaker from an adjoining wall, referencing a copy of your blueprints, or measure the distance from a visible landmark that runs straight through the wall to the floor below, such as a plumbing pipe. Once the holes are done you can fish the wire from the wall plate hole through to the basement, then up through the other hole to the speaker location. Pry off the baseboard with a small crowbar. Remove a thin strip of the drywall to expose the studs.
Cut a wire channel by scoring and chiseling the studs. Fish your tape from one hole to the other and pull the wire through. Tuck the wire into the channel and install nail plates at each stud. Re-install the baseboard. Pry the molding away from the doorway using a chisel, small crowbar, or putty knife.
Run the wire between the frame and the jamb. Chisel out channels for the wire in the frame, if necessary. Reattach the molding. In order to pull wire from one location to another, you'll need to attach the wire to the fish tape, as shown here:.
A Strip the jacket off the cable. Bend the conductors over the fish hook. B Wrap the hook and the cable with electrical tape. Insulation is most commonly found on exterior walls, but you might run into it when fishing wire through interior walls too. The key here is not to fish the wire through the insulation, but around it. Many types of insulation will have a paper or plastic covering. Try to fish your wire between that covering and the drywall.
Gene manages this organization, establishes relations with manufacturers and keeps Audioholics a well oiled machine. His goal is to educate about home theater and develop more standards in the industry to eliminate consumer confusion clouded by industry snake oil. Confused about what AV Gear to buy or how to set it up? Step 1: Choosing the Right Speakers Before getting into the down and dirty on installing in-wall products, you must first choose the proper products for your application.
In choosing the products, the first question you should ask yourself is: Are these speakers being installed in an existing home or during pre construction?
About the author: Gene manages this organization, establishes relations with manufacturers and keeps Audioholics a well oiled machine. View full profile. Read the Complete Thread. Guiria posts on December 07,
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